Gunpla Build - Master Grade Gundam F91 (Part 4)

I know I said I’d do the VSBRs last, but I changed my mind. After building the upper torso, it just seemed like the next logical thing to do.

Plus, the VSBRs are one of two sections where we can use the model’s dry-transfer decals, and I wanted to get those over with sooner rather than later. If I waited until the very end and screwed them up, it would be a downer ending to the build.

Which brings me to a little detour …

About Dry Transfer Decals

For those of you who don’t know, dry transfer (also known as “dry rub”) decals are one of three main types of decals used for Gunpla (the other two being traditional stickers, and waterslides).

(The remains of) Some waterslide decals on the left, (the remains of) dry transfer decals in the center, and standard decals on the right

When it comes to using them, the name says it all. You place it on the plastic and rub it with a pencil or some other hard tool. This process transfers the decal off of the paper and onto your model. It’s the same principle behind temporary tattoos (minus the “temporary” part).

Some builders consider dry-transfers to be the “worst” of the three types. In terms of appearance, they’re most definitely better than standard decals, and almost (but not quite) as nice as waterslides.

However, unlike the other two, you have no chance to adjust or reposition dry-transfer decals. You basically get one shot at applying them, and if you screw up, you screw up.

For this reason, some builders don’t find them to be worth their time. They’d rather use waterslide decals, or no decals at all1.

Why are Waterslides the Best?

Every decal is going to have some amount of clear film in and around the decal itself. The main difference between each type (aside from the different ways in which you apply them) is how this film looks once you’re finished.

With regular decals, this film is usually extremely visible. It's only ever "invisible" again white plastic.

With waterslides, the film is extremely invisible, especially if you use some mark setting liquid afterwards. The entire decal should look like it was painted on.

Lastly, dry-transfers fall somewhere in the middle. The film isn’t as visible as on a standard decal, but you can still kind of see it under the right lighting.

Ultimately, this is (I think) why waterslides seem to be considered the best of the bunch.

Unfortunately, in the case of the Master Grade F91, we don’t really have that luxury. Most of the dry transfer decals are not movie accurate; they’re just extra decorations designed just for this kit.

But then we have the big, red, iconic, awesome-looking “F” and “91” markings that go on the shoulders. These are also dry transfers, which is a scary prospect. Screw them up, and the F91 just isn’t the same.

Dun dun …. DUNNNNN!!!!

I am beyond nervous to try and apply them, but I know I have to get around to it sooner or later.

Better Decals?

This isn’t my first encounter with dry-transfer decals: both of my previous Master Grade model kits had them. However the ones that come with the F91 seem different, in a (mostly) good way.

If memory serves me, those older decals were printed onto a paper-like sheet, which meant that they moved around a lot when pressed against plastic. This is a problem, because any sort of horizontal motion can create enough friction to cause some of the decal to transfer off before you’re ready.

But the dry-transfers that come with the F91 are printed on a very different material. It feels like a cheap version of a plastic screen protector. It is completely clear, it bends, and it has a little bit of tackiness on the inside.

(It also seems as if it takes a lot more pressure to get the decal to transfer. If so, that should minimize accidents, where some or all of the decal rubs off by moving it around).

The only disadvantage is that it isn’t really obvious whether or not the decal has successfully transferred off the plastic. Your best bet is to rub a few extra times even if you think you’re done.

VSBRs

Back to the build!

Here are all the parts for both VSBRs. Don’t pay too much attention to all the detailing. I ended up redoing most of it later:

First, we assemble some (though not all) of the slidey pieces inside of the inner frame:

Then we cover them up with some of the exterior armor:

Next, we attach the long blue piece by basically threading the frame through it like a needle:

Finally, we just have to snap on the rest of the armor, and we’re done!

That big decal is one of the dry-transfers, and as you can see, it went on without a hitch. It’s a cool little extra detail.

Deploying the VSBR

Anyone who has seen the Gundam F91 film knows that the photo above is what the VSBR looks like at rest. When the pilot wants to use it, it opens up, both to deploy a grip and to assist with heat ventilation:

But that’s not all! There is actually a second grip closer to the front:

This is new to me - there’s nothing like it on the High Grade model. I have to assume that the articulation on this Master Grade must be good enough that it can wield a single VSBR with two hands. That’s going to be pretty cool.

Let’s now attach the VSBR’s to the backpack:

They just look so good, don’t they?

Comparison to the High Grade F91

On the surface, the High Grade version looks pretty close. They have the same basic shape, and they’re about the same relative size.

They even open up in the exact same fashion.

The back vent on the High Grade doesn’t open up, but that’s not too big of a deal

But there are a number of differences:

  • The blue sections of the MG are made out of plastic, whereas the HG actually uses one massive blue decal. Most reviewers _hate_ this about the kit, but if I’m being honest, the decals look (and have held up) way better than they have any right to. It is by far the "biggest" difference between the two, but I also think it has the smallest impact.
  • The mount points are very different. On the MG, there’s just a small circular hole: Whereas on the HG there’s a whole bunch of extra grey plastic: I think it looks like an eyesore. It detracts from the sleek, cohesive look of the VSBR. And when you further consider that the mount point on the MG is nothing more than a simple (but effective) ball joint, the HG design seems that much more unnecessary and overcomplicated.
  • The Master Grade VSBR has more parts separation, but I actually don’t it benefits that much from it. Instead, I think it benefits more from having more (and better) panel lines. They make it feel more … real? More mechanical? More technical? I’m not sure how to describe it. I guess they just look more intricate.

Overall, the differences between the two are small, but they add up to a lot. The High Grade version passes well enough, but it doesn’t look as jaw droppingly cool as the Master Grade.

Conclusion

I may have done things out of order, but in the end I still wound up dedicating an entire post to the VSBRs. We’ll (finally) wrap up this build in Part 5.


  1. There’s one exception to this rule - the eye decals for Gundam-type model kits are always standard decals, and pretty much everyone uses them, even if they don’t generally like stickers. [return]